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Heat Embossing
cbell66@rollanet.org
Hey I tried wrapping my clipboard with aluminum foil for embossing. I heated the foil first then set my card over it and heated it up. It took like 3 seconds to set. What a fantastic tip. The cs does not have time to warp or fade when using this method.
Hey I tried wrapping my clipboard with aluminum foil for embossing. I heated the foil first then set my card over it and heated it up. It took like 3 seconds to set. What a fantastic tip. The cs does not have time to warp or fade when using this method.
Carol Perkins
I use the embossing pad on the paper and then emboss. But one thing I bought before I was hardly into stamping was the Hero Arts bottle of embossing ink which has a padded applicator end. Couldn't stand the darn thing, but now I use it to run across the paper and emboss. Sometimes I run it across again and emboss again so it looks like tile. And I also use it to ink huge stamps and then use fat Marvy's to color. This works really good on my jeans stamp.
I use the embossing pad on the paper and then emboss. But one thing I bought before I was hardly into stamping was the Hero Arts bottle of embossing ink which has a padded applicator end. Couldn't stand the darn thing, but now I use it to run across the paper and emboss. Sometimes I run it across again and emboss again so it looks like tile. And I also use it to ink huge stamps and then use fat Marvy's to color. This works really good on my jeans stamp.
Sandi Marr
I need help here. I have seen several times suggestions about using glycerin for embossing fluid. I found some glycerin and have been playing with it but the problem I am having is that it remains kind of "greasy" even after embossing. I know moostamp did post a suggestion about adding some alcohol to it, but that made it too thin for the embossing. I am doing the type of embossing where you brayer embossing fluid over the entire care and then put on clear embossing powder. So my whole card ends up with a greasy residue. Can anyone offer any suggestions?
I need help here. I have seen several times suggestions about using glycerin for embossing fluid. I found some glycerin and have been playing with it but the problem I am having is that it remains kind of "greasy" even after embossing. I know moostamp did post a suggestion about adding some alcohol to it, but that made it too thin for the embossing. I am doing the type of embossing where you brayer embossing fluid over the entire care and then put on clear embossing powder. So my whole card ends up with a greasy residue. Can anyone offer any suggestions?
Joan
Sandi, My suggestion, for this type of card at least, is to use spray fixative instead of glycerin. :> I find it easier than brayering the entire card and the embossing powder adheres just as well. Best of all - no greasy residue.
Sandi, My suggestion, for this type of card at least, is to use spray fixative instead of glycerin. :> I find it easier than brayering the entire card and the embossing powder adheres just as well. Best of all - no greasy residue.
Julia
Try a glue pen. Anything that makes embossing powder stick will work. You can even write with a glue pen and emboss it.
Try a glue pen. Anything that makes embossing powder stick will work. You can even write with a glue pen and emboss it.
Shey
I finally used up my old Top Boss pad and had to get a new one too. So I went to get a new one and found this..... By Stamp-N-Stuff, a Boss Gloss embossing bottle with a sponge top applicator! It is the Best!! I don't think I will ever buy the pad again! I get a much better result with the bottle. It gives more control over how much ink you put on the stamp and where. I don't get any more of the little "dry spots" that I used to get with the pad. It only cost me 3.00 and I do believe they are readily available at most stamp stores.
I finally used up my old Top Boss pad and had to get a new one too. So I went to get a new one and found this..... By Stamp-N-Stuff, a Boss Gloss embossing bottle with a sponge top applicator! It is the Best!! I don't think I will ever buy the pad again! I get a much better result with the bottle. It gives more control over how much ink you put on the stamp and where. I don't get any more of the little "dry spots" that I used to get with the pad. It only cost me 3.00 and I do believe they are readily available at most stamp stores.
Robin
Hey, all you REALLY need is the basic ingredient in all those embossing things: glycerine. That's all! Get it at the drug store or pharmacy. Comes in a little bottle, clear, kind of thick. Get a tiny little paintbrush, or use a Q-Tip to apply it. Something tells me that'd be way cheaper, too, than all that fancy stuff.
Hey, all you REALLY need is the basic ingredient in all those embossing things: glycerine. That's all! Get it at the drug store or pharmacy. Comes in a little bottle, clear, kind of thick. Get a tiny little paintbrush, or use a Q-Tip to apply it. Something tells me that'd be way cheaper, too, than all that fancy stuff.
Sandi Moostamps
I'm here at moostamps house and she is telling me that is you mix one part alcohol and three parts glycerine together it will dry correctly and won't make your paper oily. It works good, I tried it!
I'm here at moostamps house and she is telling me that is you mix one part alcohol and three parts glycerine together it will dry correctly and won't make your paper oily. It works good, I tried it!
Stampo/VLVS
Embossing powder comes in different granulations... the majority of embossing powders you're going to find are middle of the road as they try to cover most needs... if you were doing very fine detailed stamping always, you'd need a finer granulation than if you were mostly embossing solid areas. I have the specific information in a file at the warehouse if you want more detail on exactly what the granulations are. If you wanted to get into a specific granulation, I could order it but the minimum I could get would be a pound... maybe there would be others who'd be interested in sharing if you didn't want a whole pound. We carry all the Ranger Embossing Powders... we're really their only distributor of their own line... but many of the embossing powders out there are manufactured by Ranger and they put the other company's name on the bottles... or the pads or whatever since the majority of their business has been traditionally custom label... whenever you see an article or ad from Ranger, they usually list Viva Las Vegastamps! as their distributor as they don't deal in small quantities themselves and refer people to us if they call Ranger direct.
Embossing powder comes in different granulations... the majority of embossing powders you're going to find are middle of the road as they try to cover most needs... if you were doing very fine detailed stamping always, you'd need a finer granulation than if you were mostly embossing solid areas. I have the specific information in a file at the warehouse if you want more detail on exactly what the granulations are. If you wanted to get into a specific granulation, I could order it but the minimum I could get would be a pound... maybe there would be others who'd be interested in sharing if you didn't want a whole pound. We carry all the Ranger Embossing Powders... we're really their only distributor of their own line... but many of the embossing powders out there are manufactured by Ranger and they put the other company's name on the bottles... or the pads or whatever since the majority of their business has been traditionally custom label... whenever you see an article or ad from Ranger, they usually list Viva Las Vegastamps! as their distributor as they don't deal in small quantities themselves and refer people to us if they call Ranger direct.
Tonya
Go to a drafting supply store and buy Pounce. It is under $4. Put some in a piece of muslin and tie closed. Rub this on your paper before embossing. It coats the paper and solves the problem of the EP sticking everywhere.
Go to a drafting supply store and buy Pounce. It is under $4. Put some in a piece of muslin and tie closed. Rub this on your paper before embossing. It coats the paper and solves the problem of the EP sticking everywhere.
anno azanders@ix.netcom.com
doesn't always work for me.. not just glitter either (I'm not a large fan of glitter), especially the extra-fine EP.. I must be the fingerprint queen! what does always work for me is my trusty can of spray air! after that good flick thing, if it still needs work, I turn my can of air loose on it. THAT works!
doesn't always work for me.. not just glitter either (I'm not a large fan of glitter), especially the extra-fine EP.. I must be the fingerprint queen! what does always work for me is my trusty can of spray air! after that good flick thing, if it still needs work, I turn my can of air loose on it. THAT works!
STmpaholic@aol.com
Actually, if you print on glossy using an ink jet printer, and powder IMMEDIATLY after printing, you can emboss it no problem, I do it alot!
Actually, if you print on glossy using an ink jet printer, and powder IMMEDIATLY after printing, you can emboss it no problem, I do it alot!
ChrisPPP@aol.com
I've even done it with regular paper...you just have to be really fast. My printer is only about 6 feet from my stamping table, so before I print, I make sure there is nothing in the way, print, grab, and scoot! The powder is all set up on the table ready to dunk or pour. It also helps to set the printer on the best print setting available. It puts more ink on that way. Sometimes the results are wonderful! Sometimes they are just ok.
I've even done it with regular paper...you just have to be really fast. My printer is only about 6 feet from my stamping table, so before I print, I make sure there is nothing in the way, print, grab, and scoot! The powder is all set up on the table ready to dunk or pour. It also helps to set the printer on the best print setting available. It puts more ink on that way. Sometimes the results are wonderful! Sometimes they are just ok.
D1derly@aol.com
I was trying to create some "masculine" cards for a local card swap with a "Father's Day" theme, but I was out of ideas and limited on "non-feminine" stamps. As I was cleaning the house, I picked up one of my husband's ties (that, of course, was not in it's place, but draped over the back of a chair instead...) and looked at it closely. It's a beatiful, realistic nature-scene tie, with a huge grizzly bear fishing in a stream towards the bottom and some mountains and sky above. Over the top of it all, some mountain animals are embroidered in clear thread, so you only see them when you look from a certain angle, or when the light strikes it in a certain way. I thought, "Hey! I could do that! All I'd have to do is create the nature scene and emboss things over the top with clear ink and clear powder! (Or Hidden Color Satin in silver or purple). Then, I saw these tie-shaped bookmarks by Comotion, and the idea was soon a reality! I sponged grass and sky with stencils, and stamped a deer (on some and a moose on others) in black over the grass (the stamps I used are drawn so that the animals' feet are hidden in the grass). Then I used a Top Boss tinted (clear) embossing ink pad and stamped mountains all over the whole thing, and embossed it with clear powder. I was thrilled with the results! Just thought I'd share!
I was trying to create some "masculine" cards for a local card swap with a "Father's Day" theme, but I was out of ideas and limited on "non-feminine" stamps. As I was cleaning the house, I picked up one of my husband's ties (that, of course, was not in it's place, but draped over the back of a chair instead...) and looked at it closely. It's a beatiful, realistic nature-scene tie, with a huge grizzly bear fishing in a stream towards the bottom and some mountains and sky above. Over the top of it all, some mountain animals are embroidered in clear thread, so you only see them when you look from a certain angle, or when the light strikes it in a certain way. I thought, "Hey! I could do that! All I'd have to do is create the nature scene and emboss things over the top with clear ink and clear powder! (Or Hidden Color Satin in silver or purple). Then, I saw these tie-shaped bookmarks by Comotion, and the idea was soon a reality! I sponged grass and sky with stencils, and stamped a deer (on some and a moose on others) in black over the grass (the stamps I used are drawn so that the animals' feet are hidden in the grass). Then I used a Top Boss tinted (clear) embossing ink pad and stamped mountains all over the whole thing, and embossed it with clear powder. I was thrilled with the results! Just thought I'd share!
Kate Whitridge whitridg@achilles.net
While it's true to say that pigment ink won't dry on glossy, it's rather misleading because it's not the whole truth. The whole truth is that pigment ink won't dry on unabsorpent surfaces. Glossy stock and matte-coated stock won't work, but neither will a surface like a plastic/acrylic vellum. And I've even experienced cases where the paper I was using was too absorpent, and drew in the pigment ink so quickly that I couldn't emboss it (on the other hand, it did dry, so I just left it unembossed).
While it's true to say that pigment ink won't dry on glossy, it's rather misleading because it's not the whole truth. The whole truth is that pigment ink won't dry on unabsorpent surfaces. Glossy stock and matte-coated stock won't work, but neither will a surface like a plastic/acrylic vellum. And I've even experienced cases where the paper I was using was too absorpent, and drew in the pigment ink so quickly that I couldn't emboss it (on the other hand, it did dry, so I just left it unembossed).
Shelley threasbrun@earthlink.net
I have been using a top boss pad for my embossing needs and I have noticed it seems very gloopy, thick, you know. When I use pigment ink and emboss over that the ink doesn't grab as much powder as the top boss. For some things, like double or triple embossing, or a bold stamp, this is fine, but I don't line the effect with my finer eps and fine line and text stamps.
I have been using a top boss pad for my embossing needs and I have noticed it seems very gloopy, thick, you know. When I use pigment ink and emboss over that the ink doesn't grab as much powder as the top boss. For some things, like double or triple embossing, or a bold stamp, this is fine, but I don't line the effect with my finer eps and fine line and text stamps.
Ellen lngnglr@interserv.com
I recently attended the Rubber stamp convention, had a wonderful time:D I must share with you the most AWESOME technique Stampa Rosa was demo'ing, it is so EASY it is SINFUL. You need: Heat resistant double sided sticker paper. Also known to us VIVA LAS VEGAS fans as "Wonder Tape". Some VERY fine Embossing powders. Stampa Rosa of course used their own, in a VERY cool container which was actually SIX clear plastic cups stacked on top of each other so there was only one lid. they used their very awesome "metals" collection. A gold or other complimentary pigment pad (complimenting the embossing powder) a stamp Directions:Cut a piece of the heat resistant "wonder" tape, she used a 2x2 square. stick one side on a piece of card stock Remove the protective "film" from the other side of the wonder tape. Place gold embossing powder on the wonder tape Heat and watch it melt Do this step of adding gold embossing powder and heating a total of 3 times The fourth time take a "bit" of the copper embossing powder, sprinkle on top of the gold; add some silver powder to this also Heat the above and watch it melt On the fifth time take clear embossing powder Heat and watch melt At this point you have a total of 5 layers of embossed powder which has melted together and looks like "molten" gold. Take your stamp and ink well with your pigment ink Stamp in the middle of your embossed creation Place on layered card stock. The result is an incredibly elegant gorgeous creation which is EASY to do. It looks like a image in wax.
I recently attended the Rubber stamp convention, had a wonderful time:D I must share with you the most AWESOME technique Stampa Rosa was demo'ing, it is so EASY it is SINFUL. You need: Heat resistant double sided sticker paper. Also known to us VIVA LAS VEGAS fans as "Wonder Tape". Some VERY fine Embossing powders. Stampa Rosa of course used their own, in a VERY cool container which was actually SIX clear plastic cups stacked on top of each other so there was only one lid. they used their very awesome "metals" collection. A gold or other complimentary pigment pad (complimenting the embossing powder) a stamp Directions:Cut a piece of the heat resistant "wonder" tape, she used a 2x2 square. stick one side on a piece of card stock Remove the protective "film" from the other side of the wonder tape. Place gold embossing powder on the wonder tape Heat and watch it melt Do this step of adding gold embossing powder and heating a total of 3 times The fourth time take a "bit" of the copper embossing powder, sprinkle on top of the gold; add some silver powder to this also Heat the above and watch it melt On the fifth time take clear embossing powder Heat and watch melt At this point you have a total of 5 layers of embossed powder which has melted together and looks like "molten" gold. Take your stamp and ink well with your pigment ink Stamp in the middle of your embossed creation Place on layered card stock. The result is an incredibly elegant gorgeous creation which is EASY to do. It looks like a image in wax.
Nancy Curry ncurry@mail.win.org
While I was making my pins for Stampaway, I decided to play......I got out some of Sammi's smallish playdough cookie cutters, used a Stampin' Stuff bottle of embossing fluid to roll on the thin edge, added EP and embossed......What a neat outlined image for backgrounds, wrapping paper, or whatever......I `m sure I am not the first person that thought of this, but it was fun to do!!! I did a ghost, a XMAS tree and a bunny......
While I was making my pins for Stampaway, I decided to play......I got out some of Sammi's smallish playdough cookie cutters, used a Stampin' Stuff bottle of embossing fluid to roll on the thin edge, added EP and embossed......What a neat outlined image for backgrounds, wrapping paper, or whatever......I `m sure I am not the first person that thought of this, but it was fun to do!!! I did a ghost, a XMAS tree and a bunny......
Kate iris@madbbs.com
As I was looking through a stamping book, I came across the section on embossing. It says that embossing ink can be mixed 50/50 with water and used with calligraphy pens. It also said that you can use an erasable pen (like a Papermate Erasermate) to emboss with. I haven't tried it, so I don't know how long the ink stays wet for, but they say that you can write an entire letter and then emboss it (we'll see about that!). This would be nice for making a thin border line or signing your name in gold inside a black card. It also talked about using clear EP on black cardstock. This I've tried, it gives you a rich shiny black on matte black look. It looks classy!
As I was looking through a stamping book, I came across the section on embossing. It says that embossing ink can be mixed 50/50 with water and used with calligraphy pens. It also said that you can use an erasable pen (like a Papermate Erasermate) to emboss with. I haven't tried it, so I don't know how long the ink stays wet for, but they say that you can write an entire letter and then emboss it (we'll see about that!). This would be nice for making a thin border line or signing your name in gold inside a black card. It also talked about using clear EP on black cardstock. This I've tried, it gives you a rich shiny black on matte black look. It looks classy!
Gloria GloMom23@otn.net
When ever I try to emboss a detailed stamp it comes out all yucky and you can't see the details any more. So does this mean (a) I shouldn't try to use a detailed stamp (b) I'm using yucky embossing powder (Hippo Heart) © I'm using a yucky embossing pad (DOTS) or (d) none of the above. Could some of you experts out they share your secrets with me please and which brand of powders and stamp pads to you use.
When ever I try to emboss a detailed stamp it comes out all yucky and you can't see the details any more. So does this mean (a) I shouldn't try to use a detailed stamp (b) I'm using yucky embossing powder (Hippo Heart) © I'm using a yucky embossing pad (DOTS) or (d) none of the above. Could some of you experts out they share your secrets with me please and which brand of powders and stamp pads to you use.
Justine.Tamaro@centigram.com
There are two things you can do to combat this problem. The first is to use detail ep. This is ep made especially for detailed stamps and it does make a big difference. The second thing to do is to use colored ink and clear powder. The reason you lose the detail is that the powder melts together. When you use clear pwder the same thing happens but it doesn't matter because it's clear. The color is underneath and the color maintains the detail. Another thing to experiment with is the paper you're using. Glossy paper will just about always give you more details. I'm not crazy about glossy and I use matte coat which also gives good details. Try not to get your stamp too wet. Finally, use a cold heat gun (that is, one that hasn't been warmed up for a few minutes). In the beginning the air won't be hot enough to ment the powder and will blow some off. This technique really helped me when I was embossing a detailed sunflower. Enough blew off so that more detail showed through. Ultimately though, detailed stamps aren't the best to emboss. No matter what you do you will lose some detail. Sometimes this is OK. Sometimes its not and I use dye ink because I really want every little detail.
There are two things you can do to combat this problem. The first is to use detail ep. This is ep made especially for detailed stamps and it does make a big difference. The second thing to do is to use colored ink and clear powder. The reason you lose the detail is that the powder melts together. When you use clear pwder the same thing happens but it doesn't matter because it's clear. The color is underneath and the color maintains the detail. Another thing to experiment with is the paper you're using. Glossy paper will just about always give you more details. I'm not crazy about glossy and I use matte coat which also gives good details. Try not to get your stamp too wet. Finally, use a cold heat gun (that is, one that hasn't been warmed up for a few minutes). In the beginning the air won't be hot enough to ment the powder and will blow some off. This technique really helped me when I was embossing a detailed sunflower. Enough blew off so that more detail showed through. Ultimately though, detailed stamps aren't the best to emboss. No matter what you do you will lose some detail. Sometimes this is OK. Sometimes its not and I use dye ink because I really want every little detail.
Justine.Tamaro@centigram.com
Last night I had a glorious time trying out that technique where you emboss with thick ep, throw in a few other colors, maybe sprinkle on a little gold and then plunge your stamp into the whole shebang. The first time I used Marvey black and very little of the black showed up. So I heated up the whole thing again, melted out the image and tired it using my black colorbox. Wow!! It looked wonderful. Really rich black everywhere it was supposed to be. But of course, the colorbox wouldn't dry because I couldn't emboss it. Ahhhh. How do I make this work?
Last night I had a glorious time trying out that technique where you emboss with thick ep, throw in a few other colors, maybe sprinkle on a little gold and then plunge your stamp into the whole shebang. The first time I used Marvey black and very little of the black showed up. So I heated up the whole thing again, melted out the image and tired it using my black colorbox. Wow!! It looked wonderful. Really rich black everywhere it was supposed to be. But of course, the colorbox wouldn't dry because I couldn't emboss it. Ahhhh. How do I make this work?
Barbara Holl bholl@halcyon.com
You asked about what to do after stamping with pigment ink. After the "tile" has a chance to cool and set up, use Krylon to spray the whole thing. It will set the ink and should not rub off then.
You asked about what to do after stamping with pigment ink. After the "tile" has a chance to cool and set up, use Krylon to spray the whole thing. It will set the ink and should not rub off then.
Barbara StampBear bholl@halcyon.com
I've done it that way too by using Marvy Wet Looks to color in and embossing with clear powder. It is especially nice for stained glass windows.
There is a wet embossing. Stamp your image on the paper, don't emboss, use dye ink. Turn it over and paint water on the back of the card (you need to use watercolor paper). Then put the soft cottony padding that you find in bandages on the light box, place the image face down on it, and using a gel writer or a demitasse spoon push those areas that you want raised. Turn over often to see if it's the way you want it. Let dry and then you can color it. It really works with Christmas trees, Santa's beard, and anything that you want to appear 3-D. Try it!
AlphaBecky greene10@mto.infi.net
Some of mine crack after I trim them. I ususally emboss a larger piece of card stock, let it cool, (you could weight it down with a book after it cools), and then trim it - carefully - just before putting it on the card. I use glue most of the time and then weight it down again. It is very fragile and will crack if handled too much.
Some of mine crack after I trim them. I ususally emboss a larger piece of card stock, let it cool, (you could weight it down with a book after it cools), and then trim it - carefully - just before putting it on the card. I use glue most of the time and then weight it down again. It is very fragile and will crack if handled too much.
Alpha Becky greene10@mto.infi.net
Does anyone have any trouble with the square of emboosed powder curling? Each time I have done it, the edges curl up so much that it cracks when I mount it to the final project. I usually go ahead and let it crack, miracle tape it on, and then give it a quick shot of heat again to seal up the cracked lines.
Does anyone have any trouble with the square of emboosed powder curling? Each time I have done it, the edges curl up so much that it cracks when I mount it to the final project. I usually go ahead and let it crack, miracle tape it on, and then give it a quick shot of heat again to seal up the cracked lines.
D1derly@aol.com
Hi everyone! Here's something different to try if you haven't already... I was coloring in some balloons with Wet Looks Embossing markers (I stamped them with dye-based ink on glossy sticker paper) and some of my more-used colors are starting to dry out and leave "lines". So I colored very slowly, making vertical lines right next to each other, and that took care of the "lined" look, pretty much, but some parts were drying before I could get the EP on it! Out of frustration, I took my EP container and held it above the colored-in balloon, and tapped out a little mound of clear EP onto the balloon. It is really funky to watch when it melts-it beads up and runs downhill, and looks like it won't work, but it eventually smooths itself out and looks like I triple embossed it! It does crack if handled too much, just like the other triple embossing techniques' finished products. One could use their fingernail to get between the sticker paper backing and the paper, peel, and gently mount it to a thicker piece of cardstock to keep it firmer...?
Hi everyone! Here's something different to try if you haven't already... I was coloring in some balloons with Wet Looks Embossing markers (I stamped them with dye-based ink on glossy sticker paper) and some of my more-used colors are starting to dry out and leave "lines". So I colored very slowly, making vertical lines right next to each other, and that took care of the "lined" look, pretty much, but some parts were drying before I could get the EP on it! Out of frustration, I took my EP container and held it above the colored-in balloon, and tapped out a little mound of clear EP onto the balloon. It is really funky to watch when it melts-it beads up and runs downhill, and looks like it won't work, but it eventually smooths itself out and looks like I triple embossed it! It does crack if handled too much, just like the other triple embossing techniques' finished products. One could use their fingernail to get between the sticker paper backing and the paper, peel, and gently mount it to a thicker piece of cardstock to keep it firmer...?
LindaSueN@aol.com Linda Neumann
Okay - you asked for it - the triple embossing technique. I learned this in a class I took from Catherine of Papers by Catherine during the Atlanta stamp show last November. It's so-o-o easy and gives a beautiful effect! The directions are straight off Catherine's printed directions.
Okay - you asked for it - the triple embossing technique. I learned this in a class I took from Catherine of Papers by Catherine during the Atlanta stamp show last November. It's so-o-o easy and gives a beautiful effect! The directions are straight off Catherine's printed directions.
Stamp image on cardstock and let dry thoroughly. (Our ivory cardstock creates results that look like antique porcelain.) Use a heat tool to speed up the process. FABRICO Fabric Ink does not smear after drying so it is suitable for this technique. Dab on embossing ink [clear] with an applicator top or small sponge. (Do not drag the sponge or the ink on the stamped image will smear.) Sprinkle on clear embossing powder and heat to melt. Let cool and sponge on more ink. This second time you sponge on more embossing, you don't have to worry about smearing the image because it is sealed under the melted powder. Sprinkle on holographic or psychedelic powder and heat to melt. Let cool and repeat the embossing process a third time with clear powder. This third layer fills in all the uneven spaces and imparts a deep gloss to your image. Trim all around the embossed image with scissors or paper cutter. Mount the embossed image on a piece of cardstock cut from one of our Recycled Postcards, only slightly larger than the image. Use this shiny element as the focal piece for your collage card, or add 2 or 3 more layers of backing to it and use as jewelry.
Now - for my discoveries - Using a rainbow pad on the stamp gives a really neat color effect under the embossing layers! When I made the seashells, they looked a little "bland" so after I cut the image out, I "rolled" the edges on the clear embossing pad, then dusted the edges with gold EP and melted it again. Be careful when heating though - lay the image flat on your table (preferably with some paper padding under it), then heat - DO NOT TOUCH THE IMAGE UNTIL IT HAS DRIED AND COOLED COMPLETELY. If you mess with it before the gold has set, you'll smear everything!
Linda
Do you color the image first, or just emboss the outlined image? In the class we did not color the image and I haven't colored any since then either. Again, I always use a rainbow pad so that there is some color for the holographic to pick up. Try coloring - see what happens. Just remember, sponge the first layer of clear embossing ink (tap, tap, tap it on until the entire surface is covered). Do not rub it on or the colors and ink will smear. Once you put the clear EP on and heat it, the colors and ink are sealed and you can then rub the other layers of embossing ink. Let me know if you are successful with the coloring.
Do you color the image first, or just emboss the outlined image? In the class we did not color the image and I haven't colored any since then either. Again, I always use a rainbow pad so that there is some color for the holographic to pick up. Try coloring - see what happens. Just remember, sponge the first layer of clear embossing ink (tap, tap, tap it on until the entire surface is covered). Do not rub it on or the colors and ink will smear. Once you put the clear EP on and heat it, the colors and ink are sealed and you can then rub the other layers of embossing ink. Let me know if you are successful with the coloring.
stampatti@juno.com Patti Welsh
I tried this last night. I had a little card I had already stamped on with dye ink rainbow. I tap taptapped the first coat and heated. Then I coated again with embossing ink and (having no halographic powder) put on glitter ep. When that was cooked, I coated once more with the ink and covered with clear ep. Well, after 3 coats, I have a pretty image with embedded glitter which actually acts sort of like holographic, but there are lots of pits all over the card still and it feels a little oily.
I tried this last night. I had a little card I had already stamped on with dye ink rainbow. I tap taptapped the first coat and heated. Then I coated again with embossing ink and (having no halographic powder) put on glitter ep. When that was cooked, I coated once more with the ink and covered with clear ep. Well, after 3 coats, I have a pretty image with embedded glitter which actually acts sort of like holographic, but there are lots of pits all over the card still and it feels a little oily.
So, I've gone in a wiped another layer of embossing ink on it and coated once again with the clear ep and heated it up again. This time I kept it hot while all the ep actually bubbled like it was boiling and the paper was starting to smoke. I think the layers below were remelting again. Well anyway, it now has many fewer (but still some) pits in it and it's not oily any more either. But some seems to have melted itself through to be back of the card as well as the front.
I guess I'm not doing something right.
A little later:
Well, got to thinking about this, and decided to try again. So I stamped up another card and had at it. I think I figured out what I did wrong the first time. I used TOO MUCH embossing ink. This time I used a VERY VERY thin coat each time and it worked perfectly and I got just exactly what I thought I should have gotten after reading the original description.
I wasn't working with an embossing ink pad. I had squeezed the EI directly onto a sponge, and it was pretty thick and gooey. By tonight it had soaked into the sponge more and so went on in a much thinner coat, and therefore, the powder melted smoothly as it is supposed to do. Anyway, this effect is SPECTACULAR. It realy looks like the glitter is suspended in the middle of the embossed image. Very 3D-ish. I wonder if we tried this technique on clear heat resistant acrylic sheets we might make our own 3D-vinyl sheets. A thought. I don't have any of that kind of acryllic right now.
StamPatti StamPatti@juno.com
I found a little bit of a trick for triple embossing that seems to work -at least on small items. But you have to be quick for it to work. Emboss the image the first time, as usual. While it's still hot (like immediately!) pour your second layer of EP right over the hot embossed image (no additional embossing ink or glycerin needed) Blast it with the heat gun again. The image will smooth out a lot. Keeping the heat on it until you're ready to put the third layer of ep on. While it's still hot (like immediately - again!) pour your third layer of EP right over the hot embossed image (no additional embossing ink or glycerin needed now either) Blast it with the heat gun again. The image will smooth out and look and feel like glass. In other words, if you can get your image from the heat gun to the EP really fast, you don't even need to use additional embossing ink. The hot embossed image will HOLD the loose EP and it will melt right in when it's heated. I got some really neat looking images using this method.
I found a little bit of a trick for triple embossing that seems to work -at least on small items. But you have to be quick for it to work. Emboss the image the first time, as usual. While it's still hot (like immediately!) pour your second layer of EP right over the hot embossed image (no additional embossing ink or glycerin needed) Blast it with the heat gun again. The image will smooth out a lot. Keeping the heat on it until you're ready to put the third layer of ep on. While it's still hot (like immediately - again!) pour your third layer of EP right over the hot embossed image (no additional embossing ink or glycerin needed now either) Blast it with the heat gun again. The image will smooth out and look and feel like glass. In other words, if you can get your image from the heat gun to the EP really fast, you don't even need to use additional embossing ink. The hot embossed image will HOLD the loose EP and it will melt right in when it's heated. I got some really neat looking images using this method.
feathersmc@juno.com
When triple embossing, do NOT add more embossing juice after the first coat. Just do the first embossing and while its still hot, either dip the item in the ep or sprinkle on more. Long as its still hot it'll stick fine and you should have no problems layering your ep this way But, if you keep adding embossing juice between each layer, you'll end up with the stuff migrating to the top of your piece and leaving an ugly "oil slick" that looks and feels awful and has the potential to ruin that which you've worked so hard on. This is as per Mary Jo McGraw
When triple embossing, do NOT add more embossing juice after the first coat. Just do the first embossing and while its still hot, either dip the item in the ep or sprinkle on more. Long as its still hot it'll stick fine and you should have no problems layering your ep this way But, if you keep adding embossing juice between each layer, you'll end up with the stuff migrating to the top of your piece and leaving an ugly "oil slick" that looks and feels awful and has the potential to ruin that which you've worked so hard on. This is as per Mary Jo McGraw
Baggie
to begin, secure your piece of paper to be embossed to another piece of cardstock, I use the new tombow adhesive, for the first later you will need to apply embossing ink, ( not too much) preferably clear to the paper.. Apply embossing powder. For a metallic look, I started with bronze powder, Heat powder, after powder has melted and is still warm, apply another layer of powder to the warm embossing powder, heat. Keep building up layers of embossing powders, silvers, gold, coppers using a unique or metallic powders. Glitters can also be sprinkled in at this point for a dramatic effect (it will stick to the warm embossing powder.) After building up about 4 layers of opaque powders begin my building 2-4 layers of clear embossing powders. then stamp desired image into the ink then stamped image directly into the warm embossing powder, you must work fast. I know they used a heat resistance tape with this also to give a nice look
For information on related topics see:
Tips & Techniques: Embossing Powder Recipes, Foil & Flocking Powder, Satin Embossing , Sticky Powder
Product Reviews: A Little Bag (anti-static), Quickie Glue Pen
Newbie Center: Heat Embossing
to begin, secure your piece of paper to be embossed to another piece of cardstock, I use the new tombow adhesive, for the first later you will need to apply embossing ink, ( not too much) preferably clear to the paper.. Apply embossing powder. For a metallic look, I started with bronze powder, Heat powder, after powder has melted and is still warm, apply another layer of powder to the warm embossing powder, heat. Keep building up layers of embossing powders, silvers, gold, coppers using a unique or metallic powders. Glitters can also be sprinkled in at this point for a dramatic effect (it will stick to the warm embossing powder.) After building up about 4 layers of opaque powders begin my building 2-4 layers of clear embossing powders. then stamp desired image into the ink then stamped image directly into the warm embossing powder, you must work fast. I know they used a heat resistance tape with this also to give a nice look
For information on related topics see:
Tips & Techniques: Embossing Powder Recipes, Foil & Flocking Powder, Satin Embossing , Sticky Powder
Product Reviews: A Little Bag (anti-static), Quickie Glue Pen
Newbie Center: Heat Embossing