Tyra Smith, Cloud 9, Tips & Techniques

Encaustic Painting

michelle_m._lim@siltronic.com
They had what looked like an iron wih a flat surface -and no holes turned so the flat surface was up. Then, they took the wax pieces and melted them on the surface andswiped the iron across the cardstock.

Textures in the wax were made by using the edge of the iron, or by going back over the wax and pressing the flat of the iron against the cardstock. There was a guy demonstrating it who allowed us to try it "hands-on". You can put many colors on the iron at one time, side by side on the flat surface. When you swipe, the colors will blend a little; remember to swipe in one direction only, otherwise the colors mix and become brown. He also demo'd using it with stamps. After stamping the image, you swipe the surface with clear wax. then swipe other colors on top. When, you are finished, you take a tool like a plastic fast-food knife edge and scrape away the wax of the image so that it is white.

You might want to ask Laura Cowan also as she and I met there and tried it out; she was much better at it than I as I wasn't in a "playing" mood. The encaustic iron was about $80 on sale from $110.00.

She and I agreed after watching the demo and trying it that it could be done with regular wax crayons and perhaps a foil-covered iron. I think that Barbara Holl has tried this technique with wax crayon shavings.

I didn't pursue it after that demo (April `97) and haven't tried the crayon technique.

Sandra Luck ardnas@qni.com
I have done this. Encaustic is one of the oldest forms of art. Encaustic means to burn in. It is wax that has been melted with a small iron on slick paper. You can purchase special paper, wax sets, iron etc. I purchased mine at the Society of Decorative Painters National Convention Trade show in San Diego several years ago. But since then have found that I can use regular crayons and a small travel iron (no steam holes in plate of iron) and any slick paper. Do you have specific questions? I would be glad to try and answer them.

Gary Joy Bladerunr@why.net
I had a chance to try this last summer. It is ok to mess w/once, but I didn't get alot out of it. You heat the wax "crayons" on an "iron" and then "color" on the paper, or you use a tool to scoop the wax into to draw fine lines. (personally I had more fun shaving crayons, melting them on paper and sending to people in the summer and SAYING it was E.W.-I described the "scene" and they just thought it melted in the mail-it was done as a joke!)

Haika2 Haika2@aol.com
I also got interested in encaustic art recently and ordered the supplies necessary. I DID open the box , but other distractions interferred with my experimentation. Some day......anyway, I found Encaustikos! by doing a websearch on `encaustic'. Also found some other great links (which are all in the bookmarks on my WORK computer).

Enkaustikos!, 1-800-536-2830, 3 North Washington St., Rochester, NY 14614

I've heard of encaustic embellishment on paper/card done two ways:

1.with a holeless hot iron
2. with an encaustic hot tool

I have the hot tool, since I want to do lots of teeny dots and fine lines. The hot iron, as I understand it, is used by scribbling wax onto the iron, heating it up and squooshing it onto paper. The hot tool works more like a pen. Instead of using the tubs of colored wax (which are pretty pricey), I was told (by Enkaustikos!) that crayons will work also. There's a whole series of pen points and hot brush attachments for the hot tool. By chatting with the staff at Enkaustikos, you can figure out which attachments are most suited to the work YOU want to do. I got the c-5 fine line pen point and the batik wax writer. I was not able to get the basics for under $100. If you have access to electrical expertise, you probably can rig a temperature regulator and cut some cost. I had to get the $42 temperature regulator. By the way, Enkaustikos! doesn't sell retail, but they answer questions and refer you to a retailer who carries their supplies. I ordered through Rochester Art Supply 1-800-836-8940.

Susan Shotwell chfarm@mnsinc.com
I recently got a card from a friend using encaustic painting. This is a fabulous card! What is involved in the process? My friend tells me it is easy, that the wax needs to be heated and then just painted on the card. I have found the goodies for it in the Dick Blick catalog. But aside from the colored pigments I don't know what I will need. I'd appreciate and direction and advice you all are willing to give

Tip Provided by: ElaineLe Page elaine.lepage@ntlworld.com
Originating source unknown
Encaustic (Hot Wax) painting dates back to ancient Greece. Beeswax is the oldest known pigment binder. Encaustic literally means "Burning In". The process itself is very simple. Pigment is added to molten bees wax and (often) resin, which is applied to a surface. The surface itself may be warm allowing for manipulation of the encaustic paint.It may also be cool causing the brush stroke to "Freeze" immediately. The final treatment is the "burning in" which consists of passing a heat source over the surface, causing a fusing and bonding of the painting. The surface may then be polished with a soft cloth for a nice sheen. This is the "Classic Way", today there are any number of ways of working with wax. Encaustic has the advantage of not yellowing, of weathering well , being unaffected by moister and being able to with stand higher heat than oil paintings. Encaustic is good for creating texture and can be painted on any number of surfaces (Canvas, Paper, Stone Wood Panels, and so on). The advantages of adding balsams and resins to the wax is argued endlessly. To the beeswax you can add Linseed oil, Larch Turpentine, Dammar Crystals, Mastic, Colophony, Carnauba Wax, Copal, and so on. With a little research you will find many "encaustic" recipes. Be willing to experiment to find what works.

WAX PASTE

Ingredients

1 part Beeswax (bleached or natural)
3-6 parts Turpentine

Directions: Melt beeswax in a double boiler. When wax is molten turn off heat source and add turpentine to wax. Mix gently and completely. Cover and allow to cool.Store in an air tight container.

Use: This will render a soft paste that can be used as an oil painting medium as well as a binder for pigment. To make a paint moisten pigment w/ turpentine to form a paste. Add wax paste to pigment paste until desired consistency is reached.

HARDENED WAX PASTE

Ingredients

2 Parts white Beeswax (by weight)
1 Part unbleached Carnauba Wax (by weight)
6 Parts Turpentine (by weight)

Directions: As in the Wax Paste, the beeswax is heated in a double boiler waterbath and combined with 3 parts of the Turpentine. In a separate double boiler heat the Carnauba wax. Combine the melted Carnauba Wax with the remaining 3 parts of turpentine. Blend the beeswax mixture with Carnauba wax mixture, by vigorously stirring the two together while they are cooling.

Use: Makes a great finish, because it can be polished into a rich lustrous surface after application.

BASIC ENCAUSTIC

Ingredients

Beeswax
Pigment
Carnauba Wax (if desired)
Dammar Crystals (if desired)

Directions: Melt beeswax ( I use a muffin tin on an electric hot plate), moisten pigment into a paste w/ turpentine, add to molten wax until desired opacity is achieved. When Encaustics are cooling they should be stirred so the heavier pigments don't settle to the bottom.

Carnauba wax should be melted w/ beeswax before adding pigment. The addition of Carnauba Wax Gives the final paint a more rigid surface and a higher melting point. Dammar should be added to beeswax before adding pigment. The addition of dammar also makes for a more rigid surface. Adds a slight sheen as well.

Avoid over heating as it will cause the wax and pigment to separate.

Caution: Do not allow the turpentine-wax mixture to splash onto the hotplate or heating flame. Wax paste is extremely flammable and difficult to extinguish once lit.

For information on related topics see:
Product Reviews: Encaustic Waxes