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Adirondack Acohol Inks
(Ranger Industries http://www.rangerink.com/)
Tim Holtz tim@timholtz.com
Subject: Metal Patina
I have been reading the ideas and suggestions for creating an oxidized black patina on metals, nuts & bolts, and have some tips. although sometimes i use a chemical from the glass store used on lead, it is considered toxic and so i have come up with another way. Adirondack Alcohol Inks of course! the "miner's latern" kit was put together by me to specifically be used for aged metal looking finishes. the "pitch black" is the only opaque alcohol ink color so it is perfect for aging charms, hardware, and so on. when combined with the other two colors in the kit you can achieve various finishes:"pitch black with rust" - gives you a deep rusted metal finish (very aged, very oxidized)"pitch black with stonewash" - give you a gunmetal finish (like a black patina oxidation) to apply them to hardware or charms, place the objects on your non- stick craft sheet - do not put them on a porous surface or you will watse your ink! then drip the inks directly from the bottle over your objects - begin with just a DROP of "pitch black" and then apply the colors. this should dry withing seconds and best of all permanent! remember if you get too much color on your objects, just add a drop of Adirondack Blending Solution to lighten or remove the colors. you'll find your self "oxidizing" charms, eyelets, hardware, metal embellishments and more. enjoy the journey....
Subject: Metal Patina
I have been reading the ideas and suggestions for creating an oxidized black patina on metals, nuts & bolts, and have some tips. although sometimes i use a chemical from the glass store used on lead, it is considered toxic and so i have come up with another way. Adirondack Alcohol Inks of course! the "miner's latern" kit was put together by me to specifically be used for aged metal looking finishes. the "pitch black" is the only opaque alcohol ink color so it is perfect for aging charms, hardware, and so on. when combined with the other two colors in the kit you can achieve various finishes:"pitch black with rust" - gives you a deep rusted metal finish (very aged, very oxidized)"pitch black with stonewash" - give you a gunmetal finish (like a black patina oxidation) to apply them to hardware or charms, place the objects on your non- stick craft sheet - do not put them on a porous surface or you will watse your ink! then drip the inks directly from the bottle over your objects - begin with just a DROP of "pitch black" and then apply the colors. this should dry withing seconds and best of all permanent! remember if you get too much color on your objects, just add a drop of Adirondack Blending Solution to lighten or remove the colors. you'll find your self "oxidizing" charms, eyelets, hardware, metal embellishments and more. enjoy the journey....
Tim Holtz tim@timholtz.com
Subject: Alcohol Resist Technique
I thought I too can share a technique with all of you. It's a fun technique and can be done on non-porous surfaces only (keep in mind glossy cardstock is not really non-porous because of it's clay coating, but other metallic cardstocks you're talking about might work). ALCOHOL RESIST Okay; 1.Ink up your non-porous surface with multiple colors of Adirondack Alcohol Ink using an ink apllicator tool. 2.Repeat with additional colors if desired - I find that the deeper the background colors, the better for this technique. 3.Allow ink to dry completely (you can also zap it with the Heat-it Craft Tool). 4.Ink up a stamp with Jet Black Archival Ink (it is very important you use Archival because it is an oil-based dye ink this is KEY!). 5.Stamp image on to inked surface and IMMEDIATELY and BRISKLY wipe off your stamped image. Your image is "resisted" or removed the Alcohol Ink colors to created a wonderful contrast to your background. Stamp additional images over this.
Sue stampinsue@comcast.net
I'd like to share an alcohol ink technique with you all. I was demoing the inks last weekend at the Heirloom convention in Allentown Pa. I only had a black ink pad and was getting a wee bit bored with it and wanted my stamps to have some color. I figured out a great way to use the inks on the stamps themselves.Using the felt on the wood block I applied blender solution directly to the stamp, then with another felt block I applied various colors of the ink and then stamped away.The blender solution kept the inks from drying on the stamps. By adding more blender solution I was able to get a few images from each stamp. The alcohol inks are so vibrant they look great stamped with.
Tim Holtz tim@timholtz.com
Well I hate to be the bearer of bad new, but let me just share what I know about Alcohol Inks on rubber. Now I'm NOT saying you CAN'T stamp with Alcohol Inks (we are free to do whatever our creativity challenges us to do), but alcohol will dry out the rubber in your stamps. That is why things with hig alcohol contents (rubbing alcohol, some wipes) are not reccomended for cleaning your stamps. Most stamp cleaners that so have a solvent in them also have some type of conditioner for the rubber.
I'd like to share an alcohol ink technique with you all. I was demoing the inks last weekend at the Heirloom convention in Allentown Pa. I only had a black ink pad and was getting a wee bit bored with it and wanted my stamps to have some color. I figured out a great way to use the inks on the stamps themselves.Using the felt on the wood block I applied blender solution directly to the stamp, then with another felt block I applied various colors of the ink and then stamped away.The blender solution kept the inks from drying on the stamps. By adding more blender solution I was able to get a few images from each stamp. The alcohol inks are so vibrant they look great stamped with.
Tim Holtz tim@timholtz.com
Well I hate to be the bearer of bad new, but let me just share what I know about Alcohol Inks on rubber. Now I'm NOT saying you CAN'T stamp with Alcohol Inks (we are free to do whatever our creativity challenges us to do), but alcohol will dry out the rubber in your stamps. That is why things with hig alcohol contents (rubbing alcohol, some wipes) are not reccomended for cleaning your stamps. Most stamp cleaners that so have a solvent in them also have some type of conditioner for the rubber.
So with that in mind, although stamping with the vibrant colors of the Adirondack Alcohol Inks is tempting for us all, I don't think it is best for the long life of your stamps. When the inks first came out, I had the idea to brayer with the Alcohol Inks using our rubber brayers(what a cool way to apply them right?). Well, not really, after I taught a class on doing that, by the time I got to my next store to teach using the brayers....you guessed it! The brayers started to crumble and fall right off the handles - ALL 24 OF THEM!!! There you have it - proof!
My advise would be to stick with the Adirondack Ink pad for stamping and save the alcohol inks for backgrounds and such. You don't have to take my advise, but I wanted to share with you my experience with what alcohol ink does to rubberaokeeffe aokeeffe@citlink.net
I use glazed ceramic tiles.....very inexpensive. For coasters I use 4x4 tiles and for magnets I use 2x2 that come 36 tiles to a sheet for less than$3.00.
First I clean the tile with rubbing alcohol. I make my pad using felt that you buy by the yard.....not the precut squares. The yardage felt is thicker and denser. I use the small square 2" block from my Halos set and just stick the felt to the block. If you don't want to use Halos (it does get major messy) you can do the same with a wood block and some hook portion of velcro. If I am going to stamp something on the tile, I do that first with Staz-On ink. Then I mask off the image. I usually use at least 3 colors of alcohol ink, rubbing alcohol and Krylon marker. Put a few drops of each color randomly on the pad, then a few drops of rubbing alcohol and then a few dabs with the Krylon Pen. I always put the Krylon on last. The just dab the pad on the tile being sure to rotate the pad so you don't get the same color pattern. As the inks dry, the Krylon will diffuse and look like gold veining in marble. If the tile is going to be used as a coaster, I heat set in the oven for about 30 minutes at 300 degrees. Then I give it a protective top coat with Krylon Matte Coat. This is not necessary for magnets. I also glue a piece of cork on the back.
BTW, I also don't discard my used "pads". The next time I do tiles or magnets, I just revive the "pads" with a little rubbing alcohol. And I do this same method on card stock, CD's etc. This afternoon, I'm going to try it on some plain switchplates.
This technique is so much fun, because you really can't mess up. And if you do, simply clean up with rubbing alcohol and sart over.
For information on related topics see:
Tips & Techniques: Pinata Inks, Polished Stone, Tria Backgrounds
Tutorials: Domino Key Chains, Dominoe Necklaces
I use glazed ceramic tiles.....very inexpensive. For coasters I use 4x4 tiles and for magnets I use 2x2 that come 36 tiles to a sheet for less than$3.00.
First I clean the tile with rubbing alcohol. I make my pad using felt that you buy by the yard.....not the precut squares. The yardage felt is thicker and denser. I use the small square 2" block from my Halos set and just stick the felt to the block. If you don't want to use Halos (it does get major messy) you can do the same with a wood block and some hook portion of velcro. If I am going to stamp something on the tile, I do that first with Staz-On ink. Then I mask off the image. I usually use at least 3 colors of alcohol ink, rubbing alcohol and Krylon marker. Put a few drops of each color randomly on the pad, then a few drops of rubbing alcohol and then a few dabs with the Krylon Pen. I always put the Krylon on last. The just dab the pad on the tile being sure to rotate the pad so you don't get the same color pattern. As the inks dry, the Krylon will diffuse and look like gold veining in marble. If the tile is going to be used as a coaster, I heat set in the oven for about 30 minutes at 300 degrees. Then I give it a protective top coat with Krylon Matte Coat. This is not necessary for magnets. I also glue a piece of cork on the back.
BTW, I also don't discard my used "pads". The next time I do tiles or magnets, I just revive the "pads" with a little rubbing alcohol. And I do this same method on card stock, CD's etc. This afternoon, I'm going to try it on some plain switchplates.
This technique is so much fun, because you really can't mess up. And if you do, simply clean up with rubbing alcohol and sart over.
For information on related topics see:
Tips & Techniques: Pinata Inks, Polished Stone, Tria Backgrounds
Tutorials: Domino Key Chains, Dominoe Necklaces